clutch problem?

[samatye]

I got my new sprockets (-1/+2) put on my bike, and since then, if i pull the clutch in, the bike will still move forward, even at it's idle state. If i put it in neutral, it's fine, but it's also more difficult to shift gears and find neutral. it just doesnt want to get there. i have to apply a brake for the bike to not roll forward, with my clutch in.

What could be causing that?

[douglas]

youve adjusted the clutch cable of course? does it do it after its warm or just when cold?

[samatye]

always, but i didn't adjust any cables...

[seric]

Is it a cable clutch?

[SatanCruz]

Sounds like you need more clutch pull to disengage the clutch, which is why it's moving and hard to find gears. Turn the adjusters (at the lever first, then at the end the cable on the engine, clutch side) out to take additional slack out of the cable.

If it's an old cable, and you've maxed out the adjustment and it's still a problem, it may be stretched and need to be replaced.

[the_grinch]

When I rode your bike there was too much slack in the clutch cable.

[samatye]

But since you rode it, jon, I have new sprockets. So now I might now have enough slack in my cable clutch? I'll try and adjust. Thanks guys.

[Junkie]

Sprockets have absolutely jack shit to do with the clutch cable. I don't know why it happened when you changed the sprockets, but it sounds like the most likely scenario is a loose clutch cable.

[lugnut]

Sprockets have absolutely jack shit to do with the clutch cable. I don't know why it happened when you changed the sprockets, but it sounds like the most likely scenario is a loose clutch cable.

Can we all say Correlation is not Causation? More storks nesting in German cities doesn't mean storks bring babies (more babies might explain more warm nesting places for storks however).

[lugnut]

Actually Sam was using a different (related) logical fallacy: Post hoc ergo propter hoc.

[samatye]

My cable was really tight on there, I loosened it, then tightened it back down, and it is a little better. Thank you for the help.

[SatanCruz]

My cable was really tight on there, I loosened it, then tightened it back down, and it is a little better. Thank you for the help.

Don't loosen the cable, it'll only make it worse. Turn out the adjusters (which is loosening the adjuster, NOT THE CABLE) so that they increase the length of travel for the cable.

A cable actuated clutch needs to be tight enough so that when you pull the lever there's enough throw to completely disengage the clutch. Yours doesn't have enough travel, so it's not completely disengaged which is why it's moving at idle and tough to shift. If you ride with it like this a lot, it'll cause a lot of premature wear to the clutch plates and the gear box due to forced shifts.

And, like everyone else said, it has nothing to do with sprockets. It might have just become more noticeable at idle since you changed the gear ratio for low end acceleration.

This guide isn't specific to an F4i, but it's the same idea for your bike:

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Adjusting_the_clutch_cable

Learn to do this shit, it's important, OK?

[lugnut]

Let us all be thankful that brakes are seldom cable actuated any more... and synchronizing carburetors won't be necessary for an f4i.

It's probably useful to think about what part of the cable will stretch - it is the part that moves inside. The outside cable housing stays pretty much the same length throughout the cable's life, it is there to protect the part that moves (lube should be sprayed into the cable regularly) as it is routed from the control lever to the clutch. When the cable stretches you need to adjust it - take up slack. You may notice that the housing can move in/out at the handlebar and/or at the clutch. Loosen (back out) the knurled adjustment hollow bolt at the clutch end of the cable until the cable housing is snug, Check for when the clutch is engaged. If you run out of adjustment at clutch end of the cable do it at the handlebar end. If you still can't get your clutch to engage the way you like it buy and install a new cable.

[Junkie]

It's an F4, not an F4i, so synchronizing carbs is needed every now and then. EFI bikes aren't all that different, you still need to sync the TBs.

[lugnut]

It's an F4, not an F4i, so synchronizing carbs is needed every now and then. EFI bikes aren't all that different, you still need to sync the TBs.

Control of the throttle bodies isn't fly by wire? Didn't know that thanks for the information.